Antique Allure: Q&A with Brenda Kang of Revival Vintage Jewels

In the past, seemingly, jewellery came engraved with exceedingly high craftsmanship and were imbued with a chock load of emotions, in part owing to the intriguing tales surrounding the ownership. Compared to today, where jewellery and other forms of accoutrements have become common place and design has shifted to one that’s less intricate, vintage jewellery was beyond resplendent. A quick gander at vintage jewellery and you’ll be treated to a labyrinthine of minute detail and skill.

In Europe particularly, vintage and antique pieces of jewellery are sought after just as much as old paintings by great artists are. However in Singapore, the same can’t exactly be said and the reasons could be manifold – some are averse to wearing pre-owned jewellery for superstitious reasons for instance.

Which is why, our visit to Singapore-based Revival Vintage Jewels was quite the breathtaking and eye opening experience to the world of vintage jewellery. Yes, we were also getting blinded by the sparkling jewels but that’s beside the point.

Speaking to Brenda Kang, owner of the store, who had a wealth of knowledge to impart, we learned how jewellery styles changed over time, of talented designers who became revered only after their deaths and the vintage jewellery scene in Singapore.

Brenda boasts of a vast background in jewellery, including a 15-year tenure at Christie’s and has worked on a slew of high profile collections and auctions such as the estates of Teresa Po Lau, Baron & Baroness di Portanova, Doris Duke, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Elizabeth Taylor auctions.

So if you’ve been yearning to get your hands on some exquisite pieces of jewellery that comes with an equally riveting or moving story, then an appointment with Brenda Kang at Revival Vintage Jewels is all you need to get started. As Mark Twain said, “It is better to have old second-hand diamonds than none at all.”

Marie France Asia: Why did you decide to go into vintage jewellery?

Brenda Kang: After 15 years with Christie’s as a jewellery specialist, handling and appraising mostly vintage jewllery pieces, my passion grew. The craftsmanship, the details, sentimentality and designs really stand out from what we see in most jewellery stores today.

There is just so much more depth, history and style with vintage pieces.

MFA: How do you tend to source for your pieces/ how do you decide what to stock?

B.K.: I source from various auction houses around the world, I also have clients worldwide whom I work with – these range from private collectors to dealers – and I also have clients locally in Singapore who contact me to consign items for sale.

MFA: What are some of the most sought after vintage styles in jewellery?

B.K.: My best sellers are diamond and platinum earrings or brooches from either the Art Deco or 1950’s period. Signed pieces by various jewellery brands from Europe and US are also sought after. I do find more people looking at yellow gold retro jewellery, as that’s quite popular in fashion as well.

MFA: How have jewellery styles changed from the past to today?

B.K.: Antique to mid 20^th century jewellery had a certain type of look and uniformity in style that would change as fashion changed. I feel that today, there are no more rules, and so much more individuality. For example, in 1940’s, you would not wear an Art Deco Double Clip brooch or an Art Nouveau Pendant because it was out of style, and most women felt they had to conform to certain styles or a look.

Today, anything goes and one would not feel a need to conform and in fact, would want to stand out more from the crowd.

MFA: What are some of your favourite pieces?

B.K.:  There were so many! But here are a few that come to mind….

• Marcus & Co Bow Brooch
• Ghiso Art Deco Diamond and Double Clip Brooch
• Mauboussin Retro 18K Yellow Gold and Diamond Bracelet
• Victorian Yellow Gold Pendant Earrings
• Tiffany & Co Art Deco Diamond and Pearl Watch
• Antique Cameo Ring
• Antique Cameo Pendant
• Suzanne Belperron Coral and Gold Ring

MFA: Who are your favourite jewellery designers?

B.K.: So many! Aside from brand names such as, Cartier, Van Cleef, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin, Verdura (I should add I prefer their earlier works in general), there is also Rene Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, early American jewelers such as Marcus & Co, Black Star and Frost etc.. But you should know that some of my favourite pieces also have no signature and no brand!

MFA: What are some of the important things to note before buying vintage jewellery?

• Quality of the gemstones used (4 C’s etc)
• Condition of the piece
• Any marks (a brand or French gold marks add value)
• Quality of the workmanship (look at the back, if the piece is beautifully finished behind as it is in the front of the jewel, it is a very good sign)
• Feel it (it should be smooth and not catch on to your silk dress due to poor finishing)

MFA: How should one care for their vintage pieces?

B.K.: Bring it back to where you had bought it from. Vintage should not be over-cleaned, and should be handled appropriately. Best to have the professionals do it for you.

Revival Vintage Jewels is located at International Building Singapore, however visits to the showroom are by appointment only. 

Tarandip Kaur