{"id":346416,"date":"2013-08-21T12:25:31","date_gmt":"2013-08-21T04:25:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mariefranceasia.com\/uncategorized-hk\/australia-an-adventure-in-queensland-346416.html"},"modified":"2013-08-21T12:25:31","modified_gmt":"2013-08-21T04:25:31","slug":"australia-an-adventure-in-queensland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mariefranceasia.com\/hk\/travel-hk\/destination-accomplished-hk\/australia-an-adventure-in-queensland-346416.html","title":{"rendered":"Australia: An adventure in Queensland"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"queensland-beach-travel-australia\"<\/span><\/a><\/p>

When we think of Australia, we often get the image of a vast and flat red desert. <\/p>

But any preconceived notions are shattered as soon as we step a foot in Queensland. The north-eastern state\u00a0is an incredible destination for nature-lovers with its unexpected lushness.\u00a0Virgin forests with phenomenal trees, the great barrier reef dotted with beaches and mangroves, friendly savannas of the Aboriginal world.<\/p>

Everything is available in XXL, including the massive distances and high cost of living.\u00a0Prosperity means the Australian dollar is high and the influx of local tourists means there is no incentive to lower prices. So you better have some serious wedge in your pocket before embarking on this enjoyable ride!<\/p>

\"queensland-cave-travel-australia\"<\/span><\/a>Aboriginal caves<\/strong>
We start where it all began, in Cooktown (a small town of 2,300 inhabitants), northern Queensland. It's a small ghost town where the famous Endeavour ship beached. The town is named after its English Captain James Cook who in June 1770 made land on the Australian east coast. The place\u00a0reminds you of an Edward Hopper painting with a raw post-storm sun. Think few pedestrians pausing on benches, more pubs than shops and some stunning colonial-style facades.\u00a0<\/p>

These facades are testament to a brief but prosperous period at the end of the 19th Century after the discovery of large gold nuggets in a nearby river. But its success was also its downfall - especially for the aboriginal population.\u00a0Viruses and bacteria brought by the miners decimated the tribes.\u00a0The survivors were then put under religious supervision.\u00a0\"My uncle, my two aunts and my father lived in the Lutheran mission,\" says Willie Gordon, of the tribe of Nugal-warra, which\u00a0organizes\u00a0wonderful walks\u00a0in the bush in the footsteps of his family.\u00a0<\/p>

\"Before that time, they moved from the bush to the coast following the flowering trees that indicated where to find resources,\" says Willie, drawing in the sand with the tip of his umbrella .\u00a0<\/p>

We trudge after him among the eucalyptus and acacias that describes its therapeutic uses.\u00a0Large flat rocks interrupt the track.\u00a0It descends into open caves.\u00a0Painted on their\u00a0walls, stylized characters, often striped stripes.\u00a0\"These are the scars of initiation.\u00a0The skin was incised with pieces of quartz.\u00a0The number indicated the degree of knowledge,\" says Willie Gordon whose obsession is to convey the history of the clan and the serpent rainbow sky. Everywhere you look in Nugal-warra you see symbols of creation represented on the walls.\u00a0Every crevice was attached to a rite.\u00a0So there was a place reserved for deliveries, a cave for teaching, and that of reconciliation, where Ruby, one of Willie's aunts who was born with red hair, was accepted by the family.<\/p>

Green Tropics<\/strong><\/p>

\"queensland-travel-australia-1\"<\/span><\/a>
From Cooktown, you can go south by plane to Cairns, a strange journey, where you have to weigh your \u200b\u200bluggage before boarding.\u00a0Or by road inland.\u00a0You can also follow a great coastal trail - just remember to rent a 4x4 to absorb the ruts and cross rivers on a wild cross country jaunt.\u00a0Ferns, wild ginger, lianas the formidable thorns off large white yellow-crested parrots, green chewable little lemony taste ants ... everything looks like new, strange and oversized.\u00a0Nature is alive with energy.\u00a0Casual warning signs litter the area..\"Careful, deadly fish,\" warns one when we stop randomly along mangrove.\u00a0Later, in the bend of a river, a large estuarine crocodile basks in the sun, it seems less evil than the sea after the passage of the Daintree River by ferry.
the sea after the passage of the Daintree River by ferry.
<\/p>

Port Douglas, the inevitable<\/strong><\/p>

Built in a coconut grove where low rise buildings are careful not exceed the treetops, Port Douglas is the most lively places around Cairns. A swarm of young people from all over the world are working in high season and set the mood. It's a\u00a0growing mix of villas, billionaires\u00a0
and celebrity names, TV shows and movies scenes are increasingly being shot here, The Thin Red Line<\/em>\u00a0featuring Terrence Malick and\u00a0The Island of Dr. Moreau<\/em><\/a>\u00a0with Marlon Brando are just a couple of reasons why you might recognize this area when you visit.\u00a0As elsewhere on the coast, you will be treated to dinner.\u00a0Freshly caught shrimp for a few dollars and in taverns outdoors.\u00a0Grilled barramundi, a big delicious white fish caught off. Enjoy the fruits of the sea in any\u00a0pub with a pint of beer and a live band if you want to boogie.\u00a0For more upscale dining, there's Salsa Bar & Grill, always crowded with dishes fusion food, a warm atmosphere and an amazing chocolate souffle.\u00a0On Sunday morning, Port Douglas welcomes a little baba craft market. It's the perfect way to\u00a0escape the globalized made \u200b-in-China life.\u00a0Stands must offer only local products. Vanilla, licorice, cocoa, fresh macadamia nuts, lemon myrtle (a plant infused with lemon scent) and even tie\/dye goods, opals or crocodile oil abound. Adding to the heady mix of\u00a0the city is the fact it offers very convenient departures to the 2,600km Great Barrier Reef, the largest reef in the world.<\/p>

Getaway underwater<\/strong><\/p>

\"queensland-travel-australia-reef\"<\/span><\/a><\/p>

It takes an hour and a half on a huge catamaran to a platform permanently moored at Agincourt Reef.\u00a0At 72 kilometers from the coast, the coral reef remains well preserved.\u00a0From there, you can greet the locals like the beautiful parrotfish. If you don't fancy snorkelling then why not climb into a semi-submersible moving slowly among almost psychedelic coral, we spied a turtle swimming lazily. But the reality is you want to don\u00a0fins, gloves, mask, hooded black combi Lycra (to avoid deadly jellyfish plaguing from November to May) before plunging into\u00a0the pristine turquoise\u00a0water for a dose of pure happiness.<\/p>

\"queensland-travel-australia-kuala\"<\/span><\/a>Views on wildlife<\/strong><\/p>

No visit to this part of the world would be complete without encountering a marsupial or two. Luckily,\u00a0<\/em>kangaroos and wallabies (mini version of the kangaroo) are not difficult to find: they cross the road like rabbits do in Europe.\u00a0For koalas you should plan a visit to the Cairns Zoo, close to Palm Cove, a half-hour drive south of Port Douglas. Here you might be able to cradle one of the zoo's 30 cuddly koalas for a short period. A short period because\u00a0they are given three days of non-human contact so they are not too domesticated.\u00a0It is a beautiful experience to hold it in your arms, a real teddy, light as a feather, soft as a caramel.<\/p>

Cuddling sessions are not considered traumatic, despite captivity. Koalas are delicate creatures who never drink and eat only six varieties of eucalyptus (the zoo has its own plantations), reproduce well: there is an enclosure for young mothers. There is also a barrier to separate the\u00a0cassowary, very volatile, rare and protected. Its flamboyant feathers look gorgeous and chic, with a turquoise neck and a black body. But its legs, with some prehistoric ugliness, are equipped with fearsome claws.\u00a0If it remains silent, you can still listen to its strange cry - which sounds between growl and roar - recorded at the\u00a0mini-museum of Barron Falls, one of the intermediate stations of the cable Kuranda.<\/p>

Located not far from the zoo, you slowly fly over the rainforest for seven kilometers.\u00a0A journey literally hovering above the canopy.\u00a0The view below of the canopy plants inextricably tangled with, in places, the bright yellow flowers of the Golden Pendas which are emblematic of the region, and the endless vertical trunks of Kauris. These giant conifers are survivors of the Paleozoic era.\u00a0Australia is at the same time a very young and very old continent.<\/p>

Primary forest<\/strong><\/p>

\"queensland-travel-australia-jungle\"<\/span><\/a>
If you are not too exhausted you should head for Brisbane, around 1700 km further south.\u00a0Turn west and climb a sacred mountain road to Lamington National Park to become truly immersed in vegetation from Gondwana. Here you can date everything back a hundred and twenty million years.<\/p>

More recently, in 1911, the O'Reilly, five brothers and three cousins, each bought 100 acres of land to raise cattle on the border of New South Wales.\u00a0Lamington.\u00a0Twenty thousand hectares, now protected, surround the O'Reilly property, which opened a guest house in 1926.\u00a0Luckily, it is still there, cultivating a very New England atmosphere and a very green surrounding: rooms where wood is king, endemic plants decorate the place and even in pots.\u00a0It is a\u00a0great walk to take,\u00a0with time to spare and good calves for adventurous escapades, but stay on marked paths.\u00a0<\/p>

At night, a procession of whispering onlookers.\u00a0Hush, the show turns into silence when the wall lights up with thousands of phosphorescent points.\u00a0These tiny lights are emitted by larvae\u00a0mosquito\u00a0to attract insects to their nets. The cathedral of tree trunks lost in the dark is revealed in the morning and it's the perfect time to take a walk listening to the birds. Fig trees embrace the White Booyong, fellows pale trunks of forty-five meters.\u00a0The earthy smell lightens when the forest is cleared.\u00a0Suddenly, you notice the horizon in the distance, mist stretches off between two rows of mountains. From\u00a0the platform, a balcony perched from vacuum, we see the deep valleys and the McPherson mountain range which forms a natural border with New South Wales. An unforgettable postcard of\u00a0an awe-inspiring landscape of beginning of the world.
<\/p>

Photos by David Lefranc.<\/em><\/p>

\"queensland-travel-australia-jungle2\"<\/span><\/a>Address Book:<\/strong><\/p>

Getting there<\/strong>\u00a0:\u00a0
Singapore Airlines - as well as other Asian airlines - \u00a0offer regular direct flights to Brisbane, capital of Queensland.\u00a0<\/p>

Sleeping<\/strong>\u00a0:\u00a0<\/p>

- Cooktown: Sovereign Resort Hotel<\/a>, in a tropical garden with swimming pool.\u00a0Excellent restaurant run by a French chef.\u00a0From approx. USD200.\u00a0<\/p>

- Port Douglas: Peninsula Hotel<\/a>, a\u00a0magnificent address with a 60s California style and a pool.\u00a0From approx. USD400 for a\u00a0room with kitchenette and breakfast. Another great place is\u00a0Port Douglas Retreat\u2009<\/a>\u00a0with\u00a036 small apartments in the middle of palm trees and around a big pool.\u00a0From\u00a0approx. USD135.Book in advance.\u00a0<\/p>

- Lamington Park:\u00a0O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat<\/a>\u00a0. A beautiful location. Approx. USD270 per person for two nights including breakfast, snacks, tea and a morning walk.\u00a0Also check more offers via booking.com, lastminute.com.au, etc..<\/p>

At the table:<\/strong>\u00a0
- On the road to Rossville, south of Cooktown: Lions Den Hotel, Shiptons Flat Road, a pub which has been running for over a hundred years.\u00a0
- Port Douglas: Salsa Grill & Bar, 26 Wharf Street.\u00a0Court House Hotel, 72 Mary Street.\u00a0Nineteen-3, 4, Dixie Street, for its shrimp.\u00a0
- Palm Cove: After Beach Bar & Grill, 119 Williams Esplanade.\u00a0
Far Horizons Restaurant, 1 Velvers Road.<\/p>

Visits:<\/strong>
- Cooktowwn: www.guurrbitours.com\/<\/a> and www.adventurenorthaustralia.com\/\u00a0<\/a>
-\u00a0Palm Cove:\u00a0Cairns Tropical Zoo<\/a>\u00a0and do not forget the Skyrail<\/a>\u00a0walk to the treetops.<\/p>

- Port Douglas: www.quicksilver-cruises.com\/\u00a0<\/a><\/p>

Shopping<\/strong>\u00a0:\u00a0
- Port Douglas: Tshinta for swimwear. Shop 7 & 8, Saltwater Macrossan Street.\u00a0
- Kuranda: The entire village is dedicated to tourism shopping with 2 craft markets.\u00a0The Ugg brand is tax-free at Brisbane airport for international flights.<\/p> ","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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