Men's Fashion Weeks 2015: Our highlights from the shows

Tarandip Kaur 26 Jan 2015 mis à jour le 4 May 2019 à 04:07

From sinister and broody inclinations at Givenchy and Thom Browne to one-hole-too-many garments at Rick Owens, here's our roundup of the Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear collections .

Prada

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Prada
By showing both menswear and womenswear collections, Miuccia Prada's show was a seamless medley of styles - none looked out of the place. The menswear looks itself were severe, stark and largely monochrome that resonated with the metal-like flooring of the runway.
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Prada
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Prada
Pre Fall 2015 womenswear
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Prada
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Prada
Pre Fall 2015 womenswear
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Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci delivered a collection that veered towards being satanic. From red painted faces to skull faces and red flooring, all of it had supernatural written on it - with Tisci's sartorial touch of course. Rather than the usual T-shirts, we saw a lot more tailored silhouettes, along with graphic Native American-like prints. Perhaps without the sinister overtones, this collection would go down a lot easier.
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Givenchy
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Givenchy
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Givenchy
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Givenchy
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Givenchy
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Dior Homme
The curtains went up to reveal an impeccably lined string orchestra. As they performed the symphonic soundtrack for the runway, it was clear that Kris Van Assche had his quintessential polished man in mind. While the models were mostly decked out in classic suits, tuxes and long double-breasted blazers (adorned with a variety of badges), the twist came eventually - in floral prints and leather track pants. The bottom line was clear that even if you wanted to dress casual, put on a tie with those tracks.
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Dior Homme
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Dior Homme
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Dior Homme
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Dior Homme
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Walter Van Beirendonck
As a brand that has never quite shied away from politics, it was nonetheless quite the bold move to open the show with a see through tunic, emblazoned with the words, 'Stop terrorizing our world'.

While the collection was a statement on the recent Charlie Hebdo situation, it was also a reference to the removal of artist, Paul McCarthy's installation from Place Vendôme in Paris. It seems like fashion may be just the medium to make political statements now.
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Walter Van Beirendonck
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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KTZ
KTZ's designs have always bordered on being unorthodox with a whole lot of shock value. This time the team brought down suits, cocoon jackets and prison stripes, matched with bowler hats, suspenders and thick creepers. A couple of looks also had pixelated images of Lenin and Mao and a slew of patches. In essence, it was an odd mix of skinheads, Charlie Chaplin, dandyism and punk.
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KTZ
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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KTZ
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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KTZ
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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KTZ
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Moncler Gamme Bleu
Dressed in skull caps and goggles, the models at Moncler Gamme Bleu looked ready to jump on a horse and ride it to victory like true jockey would. The jackets came down in a series of different prints and combinations - from checks, diamonds, flashes, crosses and stripes - there was no permutation left unturned. Guys, have these different suits in your wardrobe and you'll never go a day without looking absolutely spiffy.
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Moncler Gamme Bleu
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Moncler Gamme Bleu
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Moncler Gamme Bleu
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Moncler Gamme Bleu
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Rick Owens
The one show that shut down any other interest in the runways that followed was the daring Rick Owens. There was a lot of flesh on show and in particular, flesh down below. We don't know if Rick Owens was trying to bring equality on the runway (women have their cleavages) by creating specially placed holes in the garments, but we doubt anyone would be flaunting these looks on the streets. What do you think guys?
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Rick Owens
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Rick Owens
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Rick Owens
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Thom Browne
Seemigly straight out from a funeral, Thom Browne's Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear collection was broody and dismal but razor-sharp in terms of tailoring. The monochrome rendition featured sleek suits, long skirts, leather gloves and hats with veils. I suppose the next time you need an outfit for a funeral, just turn to Thom Browne.
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Thom Browne
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Thom Browne
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Thom Browne
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear
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Thom Browne
Autumn/ Winter 2015 menswear

The year jumped right into fashion season with the beginning of Men's Fashion Week, starting with London Collections before swiftly moving on to Milan and Paris. In all of three weeks or so, we were greeted with a fair amount of shock and gender-bending notions which made the menswear Autumn/ Winter 2015 collections a true roller coaster journey.

Each city had its share of defining aesthetics to bring to the table - London being experimental, quirky and colourful, Milan was largely refined and sophisticated, while Paris was an amalgamation of classic silhouettes with surprising twists thrown in.

However, John Galliano's debut couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela drew attention away from menswear for a bit and caused quite the stir among journalists, editors and basically everyone who's anyone in the fashion industry. Another, more recent bulletin from the shows was Rick Owen's daring venture into unchartered territories - namely creating cleavage for men, down below. Perhaps, this was his idea of Free The Nipple for men?

If you've missed that - although we can't imagine how - here's a rundown of the top highlights from the menswear shows. Tomorrow we'll move into Haute Couture Week and after that, the month-long womenswear shows. So brace yourselves, this is only the beginning.

Tarandip Kaur

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