SS14: Milan Fashion Week highlights in a nutshell!

Many romantic locations besides the Scala Theatre, the Sforza Castle and the picturesque Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery, have played an essential role in setting the scene for a week of fashion and style in Milan.

Fashion Week in the capital of sophisticated style opened, as customary, by Gucci who presented a graphic and dynamic collection, featuring mesh and black trim leather, low wastage and beautiful fabrics; and closed with two of the biggest names in fashion Giorgio Armani and Gianfranco Ferrè.

What we normally expect from Milan Fashion Week (MFW) is for women’s fashion to be reaffirmed and restored, while preserving sensuality and feminine undertones. It is the place to fall in love, again, with timeless pieces that unequivocally bear the houses’ unique signatures which made them last for decades now.

But new talents also have their place in the Italian capital of fashion. Groomed by the pillars of the Italian renaissance, we’re always excited to see how well they fared in the toughest arena where innovation is complementary to class

As the Italian saying goes, and as per Moschino’s “tongue in cheek” black-on-white swimwear slogan, “La classe non è acqua” (Class is not as common as water) – (photo) indeed Milan has proved itself right again!

Here is what we spotted, loved and the very least that can be acknowledged about the heartfelt week; about the great, about the new and about class.

overall style and Trends

MFW has seen designers line up on opposite sides and holding firm throughout their Spring/Summer 2014 collections.

They showed us minimalist vs. elaborated designs; Monochrome outfits against floral patterns and large personified prints; Rio-inspired tropical brights opposing dark winter-y hues, again reminding us of New York’s Marc Jacobs’ cold summer forecast!

We also saw consistency in terms of wearability.

Most pieces in all collections are really ready to wear, they have character, they are confident and they make us want to wear them; today and in the foreseeable future.

Prada, Gucci, Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana introduced Milan to visible bandeaus and bras. Keep it in, wear it on top; but just show it off.

Body hugging tailoring is generally dropped and replaced by softer materials that more gracefully reveal the feminine shape in some case (Giorgio Armani), or replaced by asymmetrical and sculpted loose-fitting silhouettes (Gianfranco Ferrè).

Donatella Versace presented her first “rock chick” collection.

Orange tones reign on dresses, light jackets, skirts and tops as seen on Fendi, MaxMara, Alberta Ferretti, Gucci and Mila Schön. This isn’t an untypical colour for summer collections but here, it is perhaps used predominantly as a monochrome on minimalist cuts.

Floral Prints are mutable. They pose as plants for Stella Jean, transform into more classical, botanical drawings for Antonio Marras and metamorphosed into aquarelle subdued floral tones for Emporio Armani’s ethereal models. It is almost worlds apart from the exploding florals we saw earlier at London Fashion Week.

Prints across collections take on a 3rd dimension as appliqués and cut outs.

Admirable examples of these techniques are in the hands of Marni, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Bottega Veneta and Marco De Vincenzo. These designers explore methods for creating an illusionary print that isn’t actually a print but the result of placing ruffs, accessories and details on basic dresses.

Blumarine created a collection reminiscing of colourful tropical fish.

One tailored skin-tight dress matches the look of bright yellow tangs, layered flowing and delicate two-toned white and caramel-coloured voulants recreated the dreamy first impact of meeting a majestic lionfish. See-through tops paired with poised pencil skirts convey the delicate, yet timeless, feel of Japanese Koi fish.

Lower footwear is back to stay and has widely replaced high heels.

Outstanding shows

Out of all the shows, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana collections have tockled our fancies the most.

Miuccia Prada is wearable, powerful and daring. Monochrome isn’t in Prada’s vocabulary this summer and we see mustard and blues paired with pink and off-whites. We are presented with a full wardrobe of jackets, dresses and visible bras. There are glamorous personified prints on both clothing and accessories. Prada re-invents pockets and smart dresses in what is a summer-defining collection that stands unique at the top of its kind. But most of all, she has a strong admirable ‘feminist’ theme behind this collection which makes us want to grab it as soon as it hits the stores!

Dolce & Gabbana go Gold and Greek.

In a collection that is inspired by Fellini’s Satyricon, we see Greek temples and theatres in prints; columns are printed as well as disguised as heels. Golden medallions appear on belts, prints and headgear. Patterns aren’t simply printed, they are transformed on lacquered silk, delicately arranged with meticulous detail and Dolce’s trademark workmanship transpires to the finest particular in each piece of the collection. The shapes didn’t change mush from last season’s collection, but hey, if it works – and it does – then want we want is more of it!

Newcomers and Protégées

Rulers of style Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have shown support to relatively newcomers Stella Jean and Fausto Puglisi respectively.

Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean brings a Caribbean touch to her collection. The head is top framed by hats and scarves. Prints and tropical plants and fruits appear head to toe on clothing and accessories.

Fausto Puglisi also opts for tropical prints, focussing on palm trees that can be found embroidered on silk skirts or printed on shoes. Dresses are fit for a lady with an edge, accentuated by leather belts that conjoin masculine tops and ladylike skirts.

The buckle and belt skirt fits into the 3D print trend that has become so popular this week.

Appliqués and cut outs are skilfully transformed into visually stunning optical illusions by Marco de Vincenzo. His pleats start wide at the bottom edge of skirts and rise half way up the torso when they appear on dresses, thus defining imaginary curves and silhouettes out of non-draping tailoring.

Monochrome, sexy yet unrevealing and essential is Uma Wang’s clean collection for SS14.

Pointy black flats are secured by a ribbon below the ankle. Simplicity and flow define the look. Women are left seamlessly without make up and the hair is left moist. Uma Wang’s women are covered in paper-like material that appears hand crumbled, just as if they were recently out of a wash and spin; looking clean, fresh and un-complicated!

Tod’s is also showing Alessandra Facchinetti’s creations. Detailed punched white materials remain light and style is preserved throughout.

Aquilano.Rimondi’s collection has vibrant purples and reds, embroidered textiles and striking prints. Here again we see an important role in belts, accompanying dresses and becoming part of the outfit by breaking full size prints.

Lilyth Compostella

* More SS14 Fashion Week reviews: New York  – London – Paris.