Unknown India, authenticity and untouched nature

updated the 2 November 2016 à 11:25
young girl in saree

We had been in the beautiful lands of Rajasthan. We had marveled at the Maharajas fairy tale palaces. We were surprised by New Delhi and its old and charming side. And we had explored multiple aspects of spiritual India. Be it in the feeling of an Ayurvedic massage or at an Ashram in the hills of Kerala. Be it in the colourful pilgrimage site of Varanasi. And still, India had so much more to offer. In the cities and the people, in the nature and the food, we would find great authenticity.

Hyderabad is a “two face” kind of town. You could compare it with Bengaluru its counterpart in Karnataka state. Meaning that traditional India contrasts with modern India. It has a colourful old side with beautiful mosques and palaces. There is an incredible smell of chai coming from the numerous tea shops and I loved chatting with the locals, hearing stories about the city. Historically known as the city of pearls and diamonds, it is now also called Cyberabad. Because of its IT boom and economic growth attracting migrants of populations. This mix results in an interesting diversity of dialects and cultures. But there is one thing that brings together Indians from all over the country, it is the famous Hyderabad Biryani rice.

We found out that it was here that the most mouth watering dish of its kind was served. Actually a blend of Mughlai and Iranian cuisine, there are two types of them, the kachchi and the Pakki, the first one being the most delicate as the meat is soaked in yogurt before cooking. There are a lot of variations going from the vegetarian to the chicken Dum. But what makes it so special in general is its fresh herbs and garam masala made of peppercorns, cloves, nutmeg, cumin… It takes 7 to 15 steps of cooking. It is truly worth travelling all the way to Hyderabad just to taste it.

I was as enthusiastic by Hyderabad’s food as I was by the people of Chennai.

In Tamil Nadu, especially in the “capital of the south”, it is amazing how people introduce themselves to you with joy. Religion, tradition and art play a big part here. And we couldn’t resist getting lost in the bazaars of the old quarter of Georgetown and the old British fort. Also I had a unique shopping experience in T.Nagar, India’s biggest shopping district. Focusing on saris, I bought no less than 10 to bring back as gifts. For the romantic part, just taking a walk on Marina beach, one of the world’s longest beach during the sunrise is a magical thing to do. The morning walk increased our appetite and we found satisfaction by eating a delicious Masala dosas. Those crispy and tender crepes filled with melting potatoes are perfect for breakfast, with a sip of Madras filter coffee.

Tiruchirappalli or Trichy, an ancient capital of the 17th century, is located in the center of Tamil Nadu. We decided to overlook the city from the Rock Fort temple. It was incredibly vertiginous. We got perched on an 83 metres high rock after climbing more than four hundred steps. And we were rewarded with the vision of two eagles dancing gracefully above our heads. Guardians of the the sanctuary dedicated to Ganesh.

Sri Rangam is an island bounded to Trichy by the Cauvery river. Sri Rangam temple is the second largest Hindu temple after Ang Kor Wat and the biggest still in function. It is dedicated to deity Vishnu. Standing there in the middle of hundreds of devotees left me breathless. And I thought that no matter what was your religion, you couldn’t feel insensible to the mystic happening here.

The region is all about spectacular temples. Brihadeshwara temple in Tanjore is dedicated to Shiva. It is one of the largest temple in India. Built in the Chola period, it is all made of granite and the structure on top weights around 80 tones. I felt so tiny there, impressed by how they could have built such a monument 1000 years ago.

Visakhapatnam or Vizag, on the Chennai-Kolkata main line, is often called “the jewel of the east coast or “Goa of the east coast”. This is where people from the state of Andhra Pradesh come to enjoy time by the sea, South to the hills of the Eastern Ghats and facing the bay of Bengal. Rushikonda beach was where we had the best time swimming, surfing and even kayaking.

But Vizag was mainly our getaway to the mystic Araku Valley, where isolated tribal communities still live. The pink-red dresses worn by the women during the tribal dances were eye candy. But that was not only just pretty, the Dhimsa dance was performed as an act of friendship and fraternity between people of different villages. And this thought added deep emotions into the spectacle. We felt transported by the sound of the mesmerizing drums. It was so touching to see people from different tribes dancing in peace.

After enjoying a cup of organic coffee and a visit to the million year old limestone borra caves (considered the deepest in India), we decided it was time to leave for our last Indian destination, the wild Sundarbans.

Kolkata in West Bengal is a fascinating cultural capital. Colonial architecture still stands, and we can have a glimpse of the splendor of former British India.

After a 4-hour car ride, we arrived at the jetty. I wanted to go deep in the nature. We embarked for a one day trip on a wooden boat. Into one of the largest mangrove forests in the world.

The Sundarbarns literally means beautiful forest, it is split between an Indian and a Bengali side. It is home to many threatened wildlife species as the Royal Bengal tiger, the estuarine crocodile and the gangetic dolphin. Its water canals spread onto hundreds and hundreds of octopus arms.

The trip was as thrilling as exciting. Navigating on the swamps and salty coastal waters gave us a strange feeling of adventure. After a few exhausting hours trying to catch sight of the undomesticated tiger, we finally saw it. There, fierce and humble, hiding behind the tropical leaves.

Back in Kolkata, I reminisced over this whole trip to incredible India. It has changed my preconceived ideas about this country. What stays on my mind is the smile of the people of Chennai, the delicious food I never had enough of. The authenticity and kindness of people that I can call friends. The beauties of the temples and the prayers. it has changed me, deeply, I can see now that devotion in what you belief is the key.

To explore these fascinating places, click on the cities of the map.

map of India Chandigarh New Delhi Jaipur Guwahati Imphal Kolkata Pune Hyderabad Visakhapatnam Goa Bengaluru Chennai Kochi Tiruchirappalli

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