VIKTOR x LORICO: Manila’s star fashion collaboration!

Two of the Philippines’ significant names in the fashion industry; VIKTOR (10-year bespoke jeans label by Ino Caluza) and LORICO ( directional brand by Jerome Lorico whose work was shown in London, Singapore and Tokyo among others…), teamed up for a collaboration. The result: a capsule collection that aims to capture the street culture of Manila; its spirit, its environment and the life behind it.

Menswear with occasional womenswear, highlighted with authentic leather biker jackets and denim jeans, comprised the collection. The show was held last week at Greenbelt 5, where models paraded the pieces in a shallow pool.

Marie France Asia speaks to the designers for more insight about their first collaboration.

Marie France Asia: How did the idea of working together come up?

Ino Caluza: VIKTOR has a very directional style when it comes to design, and LORICO on the other hand is a highly conceptual yet urban brand. I thought it would be perfect to fuse each others’ aesthetics and come up with one solid project. It’s more of an instinct really, and I couldn’t be happier with the colelction that we were able to produce.

MFA: Share with us the process of conceptualization and materializing the idea.

Jerome Lorico: We needed a common ground, in a way VIKTOR and LORICO are two brands with strong idealistic senses. We needed a diffusion in order to hit a plateau and actually get things done. It was the starting point. We sorted out things first and agreed that things that should be neutralized. I agreed on denim for example but I disagreed on anything classic in terms of surface and texture. So we researched on glossed and coated materials then finally we had an understanding. It was a intensive thought process.

MFA: Is there a theme or inspiration for the collection?

Jerome Lorico: The collection actually attempts to capture the spirit of this city (Manila), its streets, its culture, its people, and the story behind it. We wanted to come up with a collection that can communicate with the audience because they can see the environment that they are living in reflected into those clothes. In a way we wanted to interpret things visually, visceral things that can be wrapped around one’s neck for example or how a simple idea can be translated into a jacket that can keep you warm. It’s more of a reaction, we see the environment then we toss back something out of a stimulus.

MFA: How many looks were shown in total?

Ino Caluza: Originally we planned on doing a really small capsule collection. Then we realized it would be a little impossible given the fact that we were already in the process and in a way caught within it.

Jerome Lorico: We showed 20 looks on the runway show but would be releasing 30 independent looks in the market. It actually surprised me because initially we were just thinking of around 10 looks and that was it.

MFA: Is there a perfect pair of jeans? What makes one?

Ino Caluza: Attitude makes a pair of jeans perfect. We only make it as close to perfect as possible but it is still the one wearing it who should take it to the next level.

MFA: Is there a perfect jacket?

Jerome Lorico: It depends I guess on the personality of the one wearing the jacket. Is it supposed to be more functional? More stylish? Or warmer perhaps? The perfect jacket actually conforms to the need of the one wearing it. For me, the perfect jacket is always the one that is warm enough to help me smoke outside on a winter’s night.

MFA: How is the business of bespoke jeans in Manila doing? Is it something that the locals are getting more aware of?

Ino Caluza: I believe that you can never compare bespoke or made-to-order jeans with the jeans being offered by retail brands. It’s just different. We are offering an experience more than a product. That I believe is one of our greatest advantages.

MFA: Are Filipino men ready to be more experimental with dressing? What do you think of the menswear industry in Manila?

Jerome Lorico: I believe I encountered this same question 3-4 years ago. And my answer was really optimistic. Looking back, I believe I am right. We are indeed ready, we’ve always been ready. We were just scared I guess. We need more confident menswear brands in Manila. We need to educate the market. The market could be receptive if it is being offered with something good and logical. There is a future beyond plain t-shirts and ill-fitting faded denim jeans.

MFA: What’s next for VIKTOR?

Ino Caluza: Next year will be an exciting year for the brand as it is our 11th year; double digits, double the impact!

MFA: What’s next for LORICO?

Jerome Lorico: Definitely still designing, and struggling.

VIKTOR X LORICO special collection is available at VIKTOR stores in Trinoma and Greenbelt 5, Manila, Philippines.

Onin Lorente

Photos: Ash Reginald Evasco