Best BBQ in Bali: Naughty Nuri’s Warung

It’s the way they shake that makes the difference, joked our waiter as we absorbed one of the truly unique and almost legendary Bali tourist experiences.

No, it wasn’t some geological marvel that we were so taken aback with, but the art of the humble Martini made at one of the island’s most famous institutions.

If you’ve been, you’ll be nodding your head already at the sight of the waitress doing a pseudo seductive wiggle with a cocktail shaker, but if you haven’t, then what are you waiting for.

Naughty Nuri’s is a Warung (BBQ place) with two locations – the original hole in the wall establishment in Ubud and an outpost in seminal Seminyak – that has garnered a stellar reputation for its pork ribs.

So it was with an empty stomach that I headed out to the newer venue to experience something I’ve been told about countless times.

Nestled away towards the end of the more upscale Jalang Batubelig, the queues themselves tell you something about the restaurant. And as you sit and wait for your table, you are treated to a masterclass in BBQ cooking as you take in the smoky delights of the enormous pit in front of you.

 Appetite suitably whetted, I sat down and was faced with my first dilemma – how to choose between the pork ribs and the beautiful sounding grilled tuna steak?

One tip for those who have never been. You don’t do starters in this place. Not if you can help it anyway. On our first visit we made the rookie error of ordering salads to start. When the food arrives in eating contest proportions, you realize you’re going to be facing a struggle when the real stars of the show arrive.

Luckily I wasn’t dining alone and was able to delegate some eating duties (the bbq ribs)  to my dining companion. And what a wise choice it was, when the steak arrived it was thick, meaty but succulent. You could tell the quality of the tuna was first class (sashimi quality as it is indicated on the menu) and it was cooked to perfection.

As a tuna lover – I mostly eat it raw – I have to admit this was the best tuna steak I’ve had so far. It looks humble on the plate, sitting there with no side garnishes but with the spot-on seasoning of lemon and pepper, you really don’t want to dilute that beautiful taste with anything else.

My dining companion plumped for the ribs, and plump was the best word to use as that’s exactly what they looked like as they were stacked up on the plate.

We decided that defence was the best form of attack and abandoned all protocol in order to truly enjoy the experience. Digging in proved to be a rewarding exercise. Dignified eating is not required.

The pork ribs were so tender they fell off the bone without so much as a written invitation, never mind a knife. Contact barely needed. Melt in your mouth soft texture complimented perfectly by a rich, creamy barbecue sauce that marry in your mouth to create a near perfect rib experience.

After we’d struggled through our mains (there really was no room for dessert) it was time for a treat. Naughty Nuri’s is famous island-wide for its Martini’s. Wonderfully flavoured, billiard table smooth as it goes down and entertaining in a slighty sexist throwback way in the way it’s made.

The gimmick here is that the waitress and some waiters gather around your table and embarrass you a little by chanting ‘shake shake’, while the lady shakes both herself and the drink around rather vigorously. I’ve no idea if it helps the overall result, and there is no doubt its more bemusing than sexy, but whatever they do, it works.

A couple of those Martini’s is a perfect – and oddly juxtaposed – way to top off an evening of very very casual dining and very very good food.

Rana Wehbe-Flinter

Photos: Naughty Nuri’s Warung.