Jason Wu Spring 2016: Modernising the red lip

updated the 6 October 2015 à 22:28
Leaders Insolution
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While universally flattering, the timeless look of a bold red lip comes with its own set of commandments. However, Jason Wu’s NYFW show has proven that even classics can withstand a little rule breaking.

The tips to pull off a red lip without looking tacky are very straightforward and have hardly changed since the days of Marilyn – keep your base flawless, your eyes neutral, then pile on the mascara to balance your face out. It is a tried and tested formula that can create disastrous results when messed with.

That is why creating a contemporary red lip look for designer Jason Wu’s sophisticated mid century-inspired collection was a puzzle for makeup artist Yadim Carranza. His solution to inject some modernity into the look was sending the models down the runway with a bare face, leaving only the lips to make a bold and daring statement.

While the idea of pairing a red lip with raw, red skin sounds like a disaster, the end result was a refreshing take that elevated the red lip to a new elegance.

Recreating this look could not be any easier as it requires so little, but be sure to start off by seriously prepping your skin. A cold sheet mask (pop it in the refrigerator!) is the best way to hydrate your skin while depuffing and calming redness at the same time.

While a model may have the confidence to strut her stuff without any face makeup, us mere mortals do need a little bit of help. Use a concealer to cover up redness and brighten the undereye area. Be sure to be disciplined and not apply too heavily. Never mind that it doesn’t hide your imperfections completely, that is all part of this heroin-chic look.

Now onto the main event, the statement lip. Start by creating a sharp, precise pout by using a red lip pencil to line along the natural shape of your lips. Exaggerate the edges of your lips ever so slightly to give yourself an overdrawn full lip. Complete by filling in the rest of your lip with your liner.

While Yadim mixed two shades of Maybelline’s unreleased Vivid Matte Liquid Lipstick, you can finish off the look by choosing a liquid lipstick in a classic red shade. Blot down lightly to take away any excess shine to recreate the velvety matte finish Yadim achieved by dusting a touch of pure red pigment.

Slick back you hair into a sophisticated chignon and you’re done. Whoever said glamour had to be complicated?

Amanda Lim


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