Seoul Fashion Week FW15: The editor’s diary

Last month marked my third consecutive season attending Seoul Fashion Week (SFW). And judging by the amazing experience I’ve been enjoying every season – I’ll be going back for more.

Having attended other international and regional fashion weeks like London, Paris, Tokyo, Jakarta, Bangkok to name a few – I have to say that Seoul Fashion Week is the one I enjoy and get excited about the most nowadays.

From good organisation to great shows and the chance to spot the next big designer, SFW seems to have it all. While London and Paris are pretty much established and consistent, Seoul still has that raw edge which keeps me all the more excited by the mere fact of not knowing what to expect sometimes, especially from up-and-coming designers. Yet, it maintains a certain standard which other fashion weeks like Bangkok and Jakarta may still lack.

Streetwear designers and newcomers showcase next to veterans like Lie SangBong and the one thing they have in common: They are all Koreans! Something, fashion weeks in Singapore have yet to learn from.

The energy and atmosphere at the venue – the architecturally stunning  Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) designed by Zaha Hadid – is also infectious and above all more inclusive than anywhere I have seen. Perhaps that’s due to the fact that Koreans in general are more interested in fashion even if they do not work in the industry. One needs only to look at the K-trends popping up every season to realise that fashion and beauty make a big part of the image-obsessed Korean lifestyle.

In  fact, one of the most smile-inducing moments I enjoyed during SFW is walking down the venue and seeing fleets of style-savvy individuals and show-goers regardless of their age. Very refreshing and quite different from Singaore’s more sombre crowd I would say.

All that aside, the designers and the shows are what really draw and inspire me the most at Seoul Fashion Week.

After 3 seasons, I have come to discover many of whom I respect and appreciate for their talent. Some, I even made friends with – thanks to the CFDK (Council of Fashion Designers of Korea) that throws a casual and interactive party where designers, press and buyers get to meet and chat about everything fashion.

So among the many reasons why I’m fond of this particular fashion week, here are a few which summed up my experience at Seoul Fashion Week and left me wanting more.

Discovering my new favourite labels

Namely, SOULPOT STUDIO and LIE.

Despite having very different styles, these two labels struck a chord with me and have been the most consistent for the last 3 seasons. While SOULPOT STUDIO’s essence is derived from culture, art and designer Sujinn Kim’s take on the city of Seoul and her interpretation of various aspects of the city – new and old – LIE’s luxurious and feminine yet edgy aesthetics are a rarity at SFW where a more androgynous approach prevails.

I fell in love with SOULPOT STUDIO when I attended their show in FW14 where the collection was presented with a manifesto explaining it as part 1 of a 5-part series (The Seoul Project) which explores the city’s multifaceted reality as a place combining both the new and old in its own unique way. The designer’s homage for her city was done again through incredible collections where every little detail was taken into consideration. The result had me in awe, so much so that I had to pre-order for myself some of their SS15 runway pieces (Active Calm) right after the show. And judging by their latest collection, it looks like I’ll be an admirer as well as a loyal customer of this avant-garde label for a long time to come.

As for LIE, the young labels’ designer Chung Chung Lee has managed in just three seasons to create a signature style which resonates with women like myself who are looking for ‘everyday-wear luxury with a twist’. From the seasonal trenches and coats to elegant cropped pants and impeccable suit jackets (of which I own one that I cannot get enough of!), every piece is beautifully made and practically thought of so that the woman wearing it will feel effortlessly stylish and comfortable at the same time. No wonder LIE’s SS15 collection has been a huge hit with Korean actresses and K-stars who like me, snapped those gorgeous flattering dresses as soon as they hit the racks last month.

It’s all about the streets

Streetwear is incredibly popular in Korea and judging by the 90s-inspired fashion showcased at that latest SFW, it looks like the trend is not going anywhere any time soon. While I’m more of quirky-chic bordering on over-dressy gal, than edgy rock chick, I love watching the energy especially at shows like Cres E. Dim, The Studio K, S=YZ, Big Park and SUPERCOMMA by Suecomma Bonnie where the runways turn into a riot complete with Hip Hop tunes and in some cases break dancers and beat boxing. What I like most about this trend is the fact that unlike other fashion weeks, a lot of the fashion shown at Seoul tend to be more ‘casual’ and young people can relate to it and even wear it. It is not not just meant for the fashion crowds – it could be anybody’s.

Inspiring and unusual show themes

Leave it to Korean designers to come up with the most interesting – and unusual – themes and inspirations for their shows. Season after season, I get the impression that fashion at SFW is more about creating an idea and a lifestyle rather than just making clothes. Take for instance this season where Big Park took inspiration by Jean de la Fontaine’s 1669 love story, ‘Psyche and Cupid’ and sent out models clad in outfits mixing the most usual of shapes and styles derived from streetwear and the 17th century alike.

Another label to take it up a notch this season is Cres. E Dim with their ‘Treinta y Tres‘ collection which was done as a tribute to the 33 Chilean miners who were trapped for 69 days in October 2010. The collection was equally intriguing featuring detachable accessories and models came out with headlamps which lit the runway at the finale.

Other interesting ideas included Steve J & Yoni P‘s medical pharmacy-themed set design and collection, Andy & Debb‘s moon landing inspiration, The Studio K who turned the runway into a pyjama party set – as well as S=YZ‘s interpretation of ‘Sillage‘ – the French expression describing the remaining aroma of a certain perfume.

One of the more unusual odes to Korean culture came from edgy streetwear label KAAL E. SUKTAE where the latest collection was inspired by the popular Korean cartoon ‘Dooly‘ and featured strong silhouettes to contrast the cute cartoon drawings. The finale saw models come out with oversized pacifiers in their mouths. Slightly bizarre but nonetheless cool.

Streetstyle madness

It’s not just models who strutted their stuff at Seoul Fashion Week – ordinary and style-savvy Seoulites also got what it takes to show off their fashion sense at SFW. And apparently I do too. As I walked between shows day in and day out, I was – along with every other show attendees – bombarded by a horde of streetstyle photographers of whom some were polite to ask – and others just took shots like their life depended on it.

I, myself turned into one for a fleeting moment whenever I spotted someone whose style stood out and couldn’t resist sharing my snaps on instagram.

However, it was the models – especially the guys – who were followed by a crowd of screaming schoolgirls fighting to take their shots and sometimes selfies with them. The models obliged and posed as they know best… the scene was one to behold and amuse at!

K-pop stars galore

Undoubtedly, one of the most interesting things I experienced at Seoul Fashion week is sitting across the runway from big Korean celebrities including K-pop groups like VIXX, MyName, Phantom, and members of SNSD, rising star Kangnam and actress Clara among many others. Not that at first I knew who everybody was (yup I’m afraid I’m slightly older than the average K-pop fans), but it’s safe to say that my knowledge of the who’s who in the K-entertainment industry has expanded a lot over the last year. And so did my photo album featuring some snaps of the stars – and whenever I got the chance, a selfie or two with them.

Rana Wehbe