Our roundup of Paris Haute Couture Week Fall 2015

There’s no denying that whenever Haute Couture Week comes around, we find ourselves on the edge of our seats, mouth agape at all the ethereal and downright artistic creations designers magically conjure up. Pure art honestly.

The week started with a fairy-esque collection from Versace who sent down their models draped in wispy silhouettes and gorgeous flower crowns, bringing up all sorts of Peter Pan moments. Thereafter, it was followed by Schiaparelli who had a brand new start yet again. Taking over the reigns after last season’s team-designed collection was Bertrand Guyon, whose flair for exquisite tailoring was present for everyone to see. Along with the distinctive surrealist elements that the brand is revered for, Guyon created a visual feast filled with brocade fabrics, delicate applique flowers as well as Elsa Schiaparelli’s face adorning skirts and billowy dresses. Quite the homage there, no?

Understated Brilliance

Moving on to Dior, Raf Simons had an entire set erected that according to him was a garden, church and nightclub all rolled into one. Featuring a slew of understated coats in punchy shades of cobalt blue and purple and red, alongside floaty dresses in multiple gradations of ivory, the collection was entirely a vision straight out of Simons’ minimalist book. While there were some gowns where the devil was completely in the details, it’s safe to say that Dior’s flamboyance factor from John Galliano’s time has been turned down several notches to unveil a more clean and sophisticated front.

Casino Chic

Speaking of sophisticated, Chanel as usual charmed us with their themed set design that came in the form of an art deco-inspired casino. There A-listers like Kristen Stewart and Julianne Moore placed bets at tables while models in blunt hair cuts traipsed into the room in boxy silhouettes. The risk was huge but clearly Karl Lagerfeld pulled it off with his ingenuity in design.

Ultimately Unconventional

With couture, designers also tend to utilise impeccable materials like silk, brocade, tweed. However with John Galliano, everyone can expect him to turn his eye the other way. This time for Maison Margiela, Galliano experimented sending his models draped in gunny sacks, dresses made of mesh and even a plastic bridal gown. By focusing on opposites and playing with androgyny (who noticed there were 4 male models there?), the collection was a conceptual machine raring to go and we’re pretty sure Galliano is only just warming up. And those shoes that looked like pizza cutters – could it get any more intriguing?

Wearable Art

Then, proving that couture is literal art was Viktor & Rolf who basically had their models adorn artworks over them – with the frame. Naming the collection, ‘Wearable Art’, the duo took art down from gallery walls and presented the idea of clothing a body with it. Whether it was a dress or a skirt, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were at the front of the runway dressing the models up in selected works of art – which went from plain canvases and triumphantly ended with an avant garde paint-splattered masterpiece. Beautifully executed, we have to say we’re glad Viktor & Rolf are devoting all their time to couture now.

Lastly as usual, the Lebanese designers, Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad could do no wrong in captivating us with their enchantingly intricate pieces that fulfilled every bit of our princess dreams. If only we could wear their wedding gowns then perhaps nothing else would matter as much.

At the end of the week, we can see that evidently, couture is seeking new ways to reach out to consumers and while it’s still going to be catered to a select few, appreciating the thought process and immaculate design work that goes into each creation is definitely called for.

Tarandip Kaur