London Men’s Fashion Week 2014: Our picks

With an eclectic mix of whimsicality and muted minimalism, London has finally found its missing algorithm in the equation that is Men’s Fashion Week.

With heavyweights like Jonathan Saunders and Burberry Prorsum leading the British pack, men’s fashion has seen its fair share of top notch high end fashion from a few of the world’s most prominent industry behemoths during the past week; allowing creatives from the different fashion houses to explore the peripheries of their designs freely.

Here’s a review of a few standout collections that hit the ground running in London.

Jonathan Saunders 

Ever the iconoclast, Jonathan Saunders went above and beyond ergonomics, and tinkered with the aspect of elevation; by installing into his collection vinyl hobby heels that made his models tower even more. His attention to detail, like the emphasis on the couch-floral jacquards, leather tops, and sweaters with matching wraps, exuded an almost-saccharine hearty vibe.

Saunders said his inspiration for the collection originated from the Eighties. “A time period that was about freedom of expression…when no one had any money”, said Saunders. Very much about juxtaposition, Jonathan Saunders opted for contrast in his colour palette, by patronizing hues of petrol blue and olive green.

Alexander McQueen

Embodying the cardinal values of eccentricity that Alexander Lee Mcqueen stood for, his Eponymous label, with Sarah Burton at its helm, churned out a monochromatic masterpiece that was reminiscent of an urban wasteland. Held in the deconsecrated and derelict Welsh Church, the melancholic atmosphere provided the perfect backdrop for Burton’s perfectly tailored elongated double breasted coats, some with gold lamé fabric stripped across for that added illusion of lackluster decadence; inspired by the works of John Deakin whom shot the Soho Art scene in the 50s,

Burton’s collection was a pleasant nod towards the era of rebellion and counterculture. Stunningly prominent in this collection were the three piece kilt suits with military style jackets and trousers, but what really stood out were the pieces in McQueen’s signature Tartan Fabric. Theatrically-charged and dramatic right down to the lighting, Mcqueen had its singular moments with a display of bespoke tailoring in the form of dark suits embellished with geometric patterns.

Burberry Prorsum

Occupying two of the most crucial positions in Burberry’s higher echelons, its CEO and Creative director Christopher Bailey did not hold back with his artistic display of sublime tailoring and drapery. Titled “A Painterly Journey”, the collection’s cultural references to Britain’s 20th century painters was stark and blatantly expressed – as it should be – in the colour palette as well as the structure. Cropped suit jackets were juxtaposed with languid equestrian blankets that slung over the shoulders like obscuring capes.

A plethora of texture was seen in Bailey’s use of Silk for their printed white shirts, while their bags were decked in leather and suede. Baily noted that the collection sprang from the imagery of a “painter on a journey, romantic painters with a masculine point of view”.  Despite having more than enough layers, the designer managed to find a subtle balance to avoid the chunky aesthetic. Whether worn or draped across, his fluid trench coats and long, ‘painted’ floral scarves are all anyone will talk about as far as we are concerned.

KTZ

Inspired by his obsession for the Holy men of India; commonly known as the sahdu, who smear themselves with ashes – as well as the sublime imagery of explorers hiking up the Himalayas – Marjan Pejoski managed to materialize his concept of a winter collection that had these aesthetics embodied in every piece on the runway.

“Spiritual and secular, something old and something modern”, was what the Bali-based designer cited as his inspiration for the collection.  Truly, his menswear showcase brought forward a contemporary approach to men and their winter wear trends.

The clothes had an icy indigenous (almost alien) aura around which is radiated. it was Pejoski’s choice of a clean and pristine white, and sinister black colour palette which made it unique. Layered to perfection, every look was a voluminous shape of intricate quilting and padding. Some mimicked the look of mysterious monks, with their heads shrouded in Pejoksi’s occult-looking hoods.  Another aspect of interest that Pejoski allowed to permeate the collection was the sport of Hockey. Billowing sports pants in mimetic monochrome as well as over-scaled bomber jackets were prominent enough to make any man enter into a trance.

Sam Hussain