Artisanal Fragrances: Q&A with Prachi Saini of Je T’aime Perfumery

We may have a rather comprehensive fragrance carousel where we pick out a scent based on the day’s mood or occasion but there is always that one bottle we reach out to without much thought. This particular fragrance will be one that connects on a much more personal level and may or may not invoke a memory as well – thereby becoming our signature scent. 

However, if you’re someone who has yet to locate the perfect blend to be honoured as your signature scent then the easiest solution would be to craft your very own. As much as that sounds entirely tedious and slightly nerve wrecking, the process is in fact a whole lot of fun and it’ll soothe your inner mad scientist tendencies too.

With Singapore-based Je T’aime Perfumery, you can essentially participate in one of their workshops and ultimately bring your senses on an olfactory journey of a lifetime. Prachi Saini, the nose who knows it all behind the company, will take you through the varied steps involved in perfumery. From understanding the myriad of accords in the different groups – oriental, woody, floral, citrus and fresh – to getting attuned with your sense of smell.

In that vein, we spoke to Prachi, learning more about her jump to perfumery from an architecture career to how someone goes about concocting a fragrance cocktail.

Here’s to no longer sharing a signature scent with someone else.

Marie France Asia: How did you get started with perfumes?

Prachi Saini: It was a long time ago in 2003. I lived in Old town Alexandria, Virginia (Washington DC metro area). We had a fantastic artistic organization called “Torpedo Factory” near my house. They used to (and still do) organize regular art, craft and related classes. At that point, I had a day-job as a Project coordinator. My husband used to travel extensively and I didn’t have any kids. Most people would call it a regular life, but to me it was slightly boring.

So I joined couple of evening programs at “Torpedo factory” and that’s where I came across “Perfume-making”. What started out as one session, became an evening program for almost 2 years. Over the years, it became a serious hobby and 2 years ago I decided to quit my career to convert the hobby into a business.

MFA: Where do you start when concocting a perfume?

Prachi Saini: Perfume making is a creative process – very similar to painting. Different people have different approaches.

Some people know the end result and start mixing aroma molecules knowing where it will eventually lead to. These are ideal students for an instructor. It’s like painting a portrait or any other realistic painting.

Others just start mixing what they like. The end result is abstract. The result is often very unique and unusual. These are difficult students, but they often surprise instructors by their creative spirit and results.

I strongly suggest that we start the process like an abstract painting. Mix whatever you like, but document your formula well. After a few trial and errors, you will be comfortable with your palette (formula). We can then start improving on it.

MFA: What can workshop-goers expect from your perfumery sessions?

Prachi Saini: There are material benefits: 3 (or more) different perfumes that you take home.

But there are lots of other benefits that can’t be measured. It’s like going to a museum and a sculpture class at the same time. You will touch and feel a lot of new material. Your knowledge and understanding will certainly be enhanced. But above all, it will start you on an olfactory journey. I hope you will notice, feel, memorize and appreciate your surroundings better, after attending the ‘perfume workshop’.

We have all played or listened to music. We have all eaten food.  We have all seen or painted. Our parents have coached all our senses, but largely left our sense of smell out. Our perfume workshops give you a chance to use this ‘olfactory sense’ creatively.

MFA: How does the perfume personality test work?

Prachi Saini: We go through several phases in our life, which guides our personality traits. There are 5 main phases – family time, being cheerful with friends, falling in love, discovering responsibilities and shaping life ambitions.

These phases leave different mark on different people. And most certainly leave marks with different intensity.

At any time of our lives, we have all 5 characteristics, from 5 phases. Some more than others! Our perfume personality test tries to capture the percentage of impact these phases have left on you. The test is simplified to get a general idea, in the interest of time. But it still does capture the essence of a person’s personality.

MFA: What is the one advice or tip you would give to someone new at your workshop?

Prachi Saini: I ask them to let themselves be submerged in the experience. Some people find it tough because they are in my workshop for the first time and they may not know the other participants. So for my detailed workshop, I take a maximum of 5 people. I would strongly ask you to come with friends, so you are more at ease.

I also ask them to try a smell and not just like or dislike it. They have to take a deep breath and find it in their memories, before making a judgment. Often people will stop at the first memory. For example, when I give them baby powder, they instantly recognize it. This is when I ask them to think again. Keep going and connect with that material.

MFA: What are some of the common notes that participants from your workshop like and why?

Prachi Saini: Most of our olfactory memory is created before the age of 5. These childhood smells give them comfort and that’s what most people like or dislike.

The common things people like are:

-Rose or rose distills: Most old perfume (mom’s perfumes) had rose as an ingredients. It still is the most common ingredient.

-Gardenia: It brings sense of well-being. Fresh and yet feminine!

-Baby powder: Now who doesn’t love that!

-Peach: I have seen people prefer this over other fruits. I guess it’s a delicate and very feminine smell.

-Spice mix: It especially appeals to men.

-Aldehydes: Chanel No 5 has made aldehydes so popular that people have started loving the aldehydic note a lot.

-Tobacco: It gives some people great comfort, while others hate it. It depends on your experience with it.

MFA: Can you tell us a little bit about your ‘Singapore-themed’ fragrances?

Prachi Saini: We have designed several Singapore themed perfumes, but they are not for commercial use. We are not sure if we will launch them at all. The idea is to create a ‘perfume museum’ where people come and enjoy Singapore perfumes and leave with fascinating memories, rather than a bottle.

Few of our Singapore perfumes are:

Ode to our mentor: This is a men’s scent that reminds you of hard strength, which is also malleable at the same time. It’s an attempt to capture a fresh perspective on old culture. So the perfume notes are fresh with spices. It will instantly remind you of the ocean’s depth.

50: This is a women’s scent infused with Singaporean spirit. It’s strong but caring. The smell is a mix of fresh grass, salt, ocean with very feminine rose and other delicate flowers.

There are several others like “District 9 men”, “District 9 Women” and many more.

MFA: What are some of your future plans?

Prachi Saini: When I started, my vision was to run small intimate classes for locals and tourists, but we have been pulled in all directions.

We are already working with ‘team bonding agencies’, ‘wedding planners’ , ‘conference organizers’ and ‘event managers’ to run workshops in very large groups. It gives us the capital to run our business, but I still prefer small intimate workshops, because then I spend more time with each person and teach ‘perfume design by notes’

Few areas that we are working on:

1. Franchises: Several people from China, Indonesia, Dubai and India have contacted us to buy our franchises. At this point, we are not sure, but we are certainly keeping that option open for now.

2. Ssmellss Museum: Mr Juan Carlos has appointed us as ‘MD and local partner’ to organize Ssmellss museum in Singapore. We are talking to various agencies to make it happen. I am very serious to bring this as a permanent or temporary exhibition to Singapore.

One thing is sure, that I will continue to run these workshops for the public and especially for school children.

Tarandip Kaur