Seoul Fashion Week SS15: The Highlights – PART 1

After six days, packed with shows and fresh ideas, Seoul has proved once again that it is indeed the place to look to when it comes to Asian fashion. Young, emerging or veteran – Korean designers showed very strong determination and undeniable talent at the recent Seoul Fashion Week SS15 which concluded last week.

The highlights were many but forced to do so, we pick our top 10 shows to give you an idea of what Korean fashion is all about.

SOULPOT STUDIO: ACTIVE CALM SS15 COLLECTION

As with the previous SOULPOT shows, this one started with a deep and thoughtful prologue projected on the screen and images showing a fast-paced modern Seoul, a city which the designer describes as one that ‘has a scar of modernisation’. Entitled Active Calm, the SS15 collection comes as fourth in the series of ‘Project, Seoul’ where the designer interprets different aspects of the city and takes on its changing identity with all its pros – but perhaps more so, the cons.

Thus, Active Calm translated a wish to restore some of Seoul’s zen and calmness through juxtaposing elements of the past in a very modern interpretation. The result was as beautiful as it is touching. By taking some design elements from traditional Korean (and even Japanese) costumes and stripping them from bold colour, playing on their placement and presenting them in far more modern materials (cotton, linen, tencel, metal, etc…), colours (metallic, white, electric blue, etc…) and shapes (sporty, structured yet light weight, etc…) SOULPOT has delivered a strong conceptual yet very wearable collection which was definitely one of the highlights of this season’s fashion week. In short, it was profound emotions and nostalgic thoughts translated onto fabric in the most beautiful manner to create something far more meaningful and ‘deep’ than what most fashion deals with nowadays.

LIE: Urban Tropicana SS15

If you ever wondered what Mondrian’s art would have looked like had he lived in the tropics, LIE’s latest collection ‘Urban Tropicana’ could provide one possible answer.

Influenced by the Dutch painter’s grid method and colour blocking – and admittedly obsessed with geometry and straight lines himself – LIE’a designer Chung Chung Lee played with 3D patterns, blocking them onto 2D shapes to create an interesting look, which has a hidden complexity despite appearances. While straight lines are easy to conceive and predict on a flat surface, once juxtaposed on the body and its curves, it becomes something else – and this was specifically the designer’s challenge.

Geometry aside, the collection was full of life and fluidity, thanks to the use of natural lightweight fabrics such as cotton, silk and the infusion of sportswear mesh material which made a great choice for cut-off casual trousers in black or white. We loved the light overcoats in vivid colour block hues, the mixing of separates with tropical print and of course LIE’s now signature frocks which we plan to get our hands on next season.

Neither too serious, nor too casual – the balance in LIE’s collection was due to a clever design process but also an artist’s sensibility who knows how to dress a modern woman, make her look beautiful but also respect her individuality and set her free.

KAAL E. SUKTAE: Seraphim SS15 collection

When a collection is entitled ‘Seraphim’ and is said to be inspired by this heavenly being, one would normally expect angle-like models, decked in soft colours walking to a classic tune such as ‘Ave Maria’. But thankfully, this is not what KAAL had in store for us. Instead, we were treated to a feast of bold street fashion (more biker than angel-inspired) in strong fluorescent shades, and the models strutted their stuff to bass-noises which turned out to be KRNFX’s LIVE beatboxing, taking everyone by surprise when he revealed himself at the end of the show. Awesome theatrics and talent aside – the collection was equally impressive with its avant-garde-ish feel, strong silhouettes and unexpected elements. We especially loved those black pieces with a pop of orange and the colour-block cutout frocks which demonstrated that strong and feminine can co-exist.

pushBUTTON: SS15 collection

So many artists, designers and photographers – not to mention just about anyone who came to see her work – were inspired by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo at some point in their lives. This season, it is pushBUTTON designer Seung Gun Park’s turn to present her own take on the matter.

The SS15 collection came as an answer to one question ‘If Frida Kahlo were alive, what would she look like today?’ Taking queue from one photo which showed Frida in a simple white shirt and wide denim pants, the designer came up with an unexpected interpretation which somehow captured the spirit of the artist while still looking modern and relevant.

Curved sleeve dresses with mixed prints, oversized jackets in a light subdued hues, midi skirts teamed with casual boxing jackets in pushBUTTON’s colourful leopard print… there was a lot mixing and matching in this collection. We especially loved the all-in-one hip sack dresses and skirts which looked feminine yet relaxed and comfortable – just like Frida was.

BIG PARK: Wish you were Here SS15 collection

When it comes to urban and casual streetwear fashion – leave it to BIG PARK to merge all the elements for a truly outstanding collection.

Inspired by the Park’s art duo sisters’ (also known as JULYCOLUMN) artworks which document their travels and adventures through depictions of the Korean countryside and its elements like bunny rabbits, nature landscapes and elements such as waves and clouds, etc… BIG PARK’s collection was a mish-mash of prints and silhouettes paying tribute to urban culture.

Prints came in all kinds of colour and styles and so did the shapes which ranged from shift dresses to ruffled skirt and top combos, oversized jackets and cut-off trousers. Another highlight of the collection was the footwear in form of comfortable printed sneakers which completed the overall relaxed outfits to a T.

Rana Wehbe

Fore more coverage on Seoul Fashion Week: 

Seoul Fashion Week SS15: Top 5 Menswear trends as seen on the runway

Seoul Fashion Week SS15: K-pop idols and celebrities spotted at the shows

Seoul Fashion Week SS15: 4 K-Beauty trends straight off the runway

Seoul Fashion Week: 10 Korean models you should know about

K-Style: Our top streetstyle looks from Seoul Fashion Week SS15

K-Style: Top 10 Spring/Summer 2015 trends as seen at Seoul Fashion Week